The Qu’Appelle Valley is a true Canadian landscape and geologic gem.
It runs from the Southern tip of Diefenbaker Lake to just outside St. Lazare, Manitoba, where it joins the Assiniboine River. In total, it spans roughly 500 km and runs from West to East.
At some points the valley is just North of Highway 1, one of the main Canadian highways, but it is a completely different world from that rather dry road.
When I first heard of The Qu’Appelle Valley, I was not clear on its location, length, or depth of beauty. It seemed to be something I should know, but didn’t.
Since my first trip there a few years back, I have gradually become fascinated with its history, beauty and variety. My fascination extends to attempting to traverse its entire length, while staying in the valley. Something I now believe is not possible. But I’m still researching and still trying.
The Qu’Appelle Valley was a historic route for the famed Red Coats (RCMP), settlers in their covered wagons and even trappers.
St. Lazare for instance was once a Pemmican Production Centre. How historic and cool is that?
St. Lazare Bridge
My journey began in Lumsden, SK as the logical jump off point for a beginning researcher.
Lumsden is a scenic small town close to Regina, the largest city in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan. Tag line – easy to draw, difficult to spell. Look on a map and you will get the joke.
While scenic in itself, Lumsden is also close to one of the main attractions in the valley, The Little Church in the Valley, aka St. Nicholas Anglican.
St. Nicholas Anglican
Most people come to this page to not only learn about the Qu’Appelle Valley, but to learn how to navigate it also.
Here then is a very basic guide.
If you are a purist, as I am, you will want to begin your trip at Lake Diefenbaker. Otherwise, I suggest beginning at Lumsden.
Lake Diefenbaker Start Point
If you choose Lake Diefenbaker, a good start point would be Elbow, then drive South to the headwaters area of the Qu’Appelle River.
You will be on Hwy. 19 and at one point you will cross the Qu’Appelle River.
This brings up one of the difficulties in traversing either the river or the valley.
The Qu’Appelle River is not continuous and is sometimes either too low to traverse, or blocked.
The best you can do is head towards Lumsden, staying as close to the river as possible.
Go through Eyebrow and head towards Moose Jaw. It’s either that or pick your way East on gravel roads, which can be fun and adventurous but slow.
Once on Hwy. 1 you will soon see signs for Lumsden.
Lumsden Start Point
If you choose to start, or continue, at Lumsden then have a look around the town. It is pretty but small. One restaurant I highly recommend is Jane Dough’s, now unfortunately closed. But there is a Pizza joint, and a pricey but good restaurant, Free Bird.
Once you have seen what there is to see, travel North towards Craven.
Just before Craven turn right (East) onto 791. Continue on 791 until you see a left turn onto Sod Farm Road, love that name.
This is a great road to turn onto and just slow down and enjoy the journey. It encapsulates everything good about the valley. Lush, green farmland surrounded by valley walls. Fresh air and beauty, what more could you want. For me, gravel roads are a bonus, it means you are away from the city and into the border lands. But some aren’t keen as they can be difficult if your car is low, or if you are driving a big camper.
Eventually this road will lead you to The Little Church in the Valley.
Another great place to stop and take a few photos, or just wander around and enjoy the freedom and greenery.
Leaving the church can be easy or difficult, depending on the season and whether it has been raining, or snowing, or not.
If the roads are wet the best road to take from the church to continue your journey may be blocked.
To reach that road go North from the crossroads near the church. This will lead you to a small bridge that crosses the Qu’Appelle River. In inclement weather, that road may be closed, forcing you to go back to Craven and take Hwy. 99 that will eventually take you past a couple of scenic old bridges and on to Hwy. 6, a major Saskatchewan highway.
